(c) John Julian
I have long admired the work of John Julian, one of England’s leading pottery studios. I first discovered the studio through Nigel Slater, whose cookbooks frequently feature its beautifully simple tableware.
After I expressed my admiration for John Julian’s distinctive pestle and mortar on social media, the studio invited me to develop a recipe using it. I created my own mixed-spice blend, followed by a spiced parsnip and apple cake topped with Highbank Orchards organic apple syrup, mascarpone and toasted hazelnuts.
Mixed Spice
Baking may not be the first thing that comes to mind when we think of a pestle and mortar. Most of us reach for shop-bought ground spices, but freshly grinding whole spices can transform the flavour and texture of a bake.
Whole spices also retain their flavour for longer when stored properly. I make spice blends in small quantities and keep them in an airtight jar in a cool, dark cupboard.
I generally buy spices from Asian grocers, specialist food shops or dedicated spice merchants, where turnover tends to be higher. My rule is to buy little and often, rather than allowing half-used packets to languish at the back of the cupboard.
Mixed spice—sometimes called pudding spice or winter spice—is one of my favourite blends. Although closely associated with Christmas baking, I use it throughout the year in biscuits, cakes, ice creams and roasted fruit, as well as occasionally in savoury dishes.
I weigh each spice to ensure the blend remains consistent.
Ingredients
Allspice berries, 10 grams
Whole cloves, 5 grams
Whole coriander seeds, 5 grams
Mace blades, 5 grams
Fennel seeds, 5 grams
Ginger powder, 5 grams
Nutmeg, freshly grated, 5 grams - grate with a Microplane or fine grater
Cinnamon, freshly ground, 5 grams
Method
Weigh out all the spices first. Place a dry, shallow pan over medium heat and add the allspice berries, cloves, coriander seeds, mace blades and fennel seeds. Toast for 2 minutes.
Add all the warm spices to the mortar along with the rest of the spices, and slowly grind them to a powder with the pestle.
It will take some time to grind, about 2 to 3 minutes, so turn on a favourite tune or podcast. There will always be a few spices that will not grind down, so I sieve out these pieces before storing them in a jar.
Spiced Parsnip and Apple Cake with Highbank Orchards organic apple syrup, mascarpone and toasted hazelnuts
1 x 900g / 2lb loaf
Ingredients
for the cake
Soft brown sugar, 150 grams
Sunflower oil, 150 ml
Free-range / organic eggs, 3 medium
Vanilla extract, 5 grams
Plain flour, 125 grams
Baking powder, 10 grams
Ground almonds, 50 grams
Mixed spice, 10 grams
Flaky sea salt, crushed, 2 grams (pinch)
Parsnips, washed, top and tailed, coarsely grated, 200 grams (I tend to grate with skin on)
Eating apple, cored and coarsely grated, 100 grams (I tend to grate with skin on)
Hazelnuts, roughly chopped, 75 grams
Sultanas, roughly chopped, 50 grams
for the topping
Mascarpone, 250 grams
Highbank Orchards organic apple syrup, 30 grams (you can use maple syrup if you cannot get it)
Hazelnuts, roughly chopped, 20 grams
Highbank Orchards apple syrup, 10 grams – for drizzling
Method
Preheat your oven to 170°C/Fan 150°C/Gas 3. Grease and line a 2lb loaf tin with parchment paper.
In a large mixing bowl, add the brown sugar, sunflower oil, eggs and vanilla extract together and whisk together until light in colour. Use your electric mixer if you have one. Fold in the plain flour, baking powder, ground almonds, mixed spice, and flaky sea salt using a spatula.
Then, stir in the grated parsnips, apples, chopped hazelnuts and sultanas. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin. Use a spatula to make sure you get all the mixture in.
Bake for 50-60 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool completely before removing from the loaf tin, as the cake will be very moist and might break.
To make the icing, beat the mascarpone and apple syrup together until combined. Using a small spatula or knife, spread the mascarpone evenly over the cake, creating gentle ripples in which the hazelnuts and syrup can settle. Sprinkle over the chopped hazelnuts and finish with a drizzle of apple syrup.
I love to eat this the day after baking as the spices mellow, and the flavours develop.