Istanbul: Parabare Forum 2020
Bosphorus Strait
A City of Two Continents, Three Names, Two Seas, One Strait and 2,700 Years of History
A variation of this article was first published in the 2020 Easter edition of Irish Country Living.
As I write this, I am slightly emotional as the world goes into Lockdown due to COVID-19, but hopefully not for long if we all abide to WHO guidelines on less/no travel, social distancing, and self-isolation. It is heart-breaking to think about all the people in the retail, hospitality, travel, leisure and entertainment industries who had to make sacrifices to close their businesses and stop working to save lives and curve the spread of the virus. And let’s not forget about all the people who have to go out and work through this difficult time; our Frontline staff, our farmers, our producers, our shopkeepers and our delivery drivers. Without them, we would not survive.
But, we must stay strong and we will get to travel, see family and friends, and eat out again. When we do, we must make an effort to support businesses who halted their operations for the good of others. Start researching now and spend money with the independent businesses who have done the right thing. Life will be very different on the other side. We all will have learned, including me, to take time out and I predict it will be about sustainable and transparent living. One which is connected to the environment and offers that authentic experience, creating memories with friends and family to cherish and talk about for years to come.
Travel is one of life’s luxuries and it is a great way to learn about our global history and geography, and every time I leave the county, I am grateful that I can. Travel is part of my job as I investigate the next idea in food, education and travel, to learn how a particular product/service is made or provided, to network with colleagues and upskill in the latest developments, or to understand how a region works together to protect and promote their indigenous culture. When I travel, I always try to think like a local and learn their way of living in respecting their environment. For me, it is the only way to travel and experience what the world has to offer. You also make some great new friends along the way.
Turkey
When I think of Turkey, I first think of its cuisine; the roses, pistachios, walnuts, lamb, aubergine, rice, fish, eggs, strained yoghurt, fragrant spices, Turkish coffee and tea, olives and olive oil, dried fruits, honey, Baklava and of course, Turkish delights. I’ve been a fan of Turkish cuisine for years, reading about it through recipes documented by people like Claudia Roden, a renowned food writer, and more recently by following the exciting journey of Ahmet Dede who returned to his native land Turkey last Autumn for three months to carry out some research on his heritage for his new adventure. Ahmet is a chef who I got to know through a close friend of mine in West Cork, Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery. Ahmet was the head chef of Mews, a 1* Michelin star restaurant in Baltimore, which just closed last season. He is currently opening up his own restaurant this Spring/Summer (when Covid-19 allows) to showcase his Turkish heritage through Irish ingredients. Follow him on Instagram (@ahmet_dede_) to learn more about Turkish food culture and how you can taste it in Ireland.
Parabere Forum
The main reason why I travelled to Turkey was to attend the Parabere Forum in Istanbul, a global gastronomy symposium that aims to empower women in the food and drinks industries. Now in its sixth year, the forum helps to give women a voice on the world stage engaging leaders (both women and men) in various fields, from business and academia to politics and social issues. It offers practical discussions on how to overcome barriers and create new horizons and opportunities, both locally and globally, as well as in-depth and innovative debate on important ideas. The forum has country correspondents around the world with a strong Irish delegation attending every year. This was my third time at the conference and it was an important one to support. Turkish women are fighting for equal rights in the male dominated country and something like Parabere creates global awareness, educates others and brings communities together in order to impart change. Parabere works by pulling together a wonderful guide of places that support women and equal rights as it moves around the world. Check out their award winning mobile app ‘Parabere Gourmet City Guide’ for a list of magnificent places to visit and eat at who are all helping to build a better world.
Inspirational people like Sibel Kutlusoy, Claudia Roden, Corinna Hawkes, Roberta Sudbrack, Darina Allen, and Bee Wilson were speaking this year. My favourite talk was from Zafer Kizilkaya on a project titled ‘Guardians of the Sea’. a conservation network that is securing and expanding marine reserves along the Turkish coastline. Learning about initiatives like this are important and makes you aware about the problems and solutions in fighting climate change.
Travel to Istanbul
Anyway, back to why we all should visit Istanbul once in our lives. No other city in the world sits on two continents; nowhere else has been the capital of two empires. The vibrant city of over 15 million people, sprawling across the Asian and European sides of the Bosphorus Strait, is very unique and breathtakingly picturesque. Founded by the Greeks, later capital of the Christian Byzantine Empire, Istanbul blossomed at the heart of the Ottoman Empire following its capture by the Turks in 1453.
Built on seven hills, Istanbul simply oozes cultural history and one which many people will be fascinated with. The Turks are friendly and people working in the restaurants and hotels are extremely professional. It is a safe city to travel around and you will hear a lot of different international languages spoken. Before travelling, please do familiarise yourself with their Islamic culture and their traditions. A visit to Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace (detailed below) will ground you and give you an understanding how the city is built and the culture is now exudes. Istanbulites and international visitors come to Istanbul to shop, eat, explore culture, visit galleries and theatres, and soak up the beautiful views of the Strait and the Golden Horn, the bustling natural waterway that connects the Bosphorus Strait at the point where the strait meets the Sea of Marmara.
Below is my recommendations of how to get there, where to stay, what to eat and see. It is a city you can travel for a long weekend but my advice is to stay at least four days and maybe venture out of the city a bit, something I never got a chance to do but I am planning another trip to visit Turkey next year.
How to get there and get around
Turkish Airlines fly direct to Istanbul twice a day from Dublin. It takes circa 4-hours to travel and snacks and drinks are included in the ticket price. As it was our first time to visit Istanbul and we were arriving at 12.30am Istanbul time, we booked a driver ahead of schedule to meet us. It costed us €30.00 for the car. Many hotels will recommend a service to use. You can also get there by slow travel via boat and train, one of the Irish delegates did it from Dublin to Istanbul to attend the Parabere Forum. It took her five days to complete, she said you can do it in four days if you wanted to.
During your stay, use public transport and especially the tram to get to the old town. This will allow you to move quickly and cheaply saving time. To use all public transport in Istanbul (boats, subways, buses, trams, funiculars) you will need the magnetic card (Istanbul Kart). You will find it in the small kiosks near all metro stations, piers, and also bus stations. Be advised, most only take cash (Turkish lira). Note, 100 lira equals to around 15euro. Uber is in operation here and it is really cheap and safe to use.
Where to stay
Like most people when travelling, I use booking engines and online travel guides like booking.com and Lonely Planet to search for interesting and safe places to stay. Although I do try to book directly to remove the middle man as it is easier to solve a problem if anything goes wrong. Parabere Forum partnered with AccorHotels in which many of the Irish delegates used to book. I would recommend the Novotel Bosphorus or The Galata Istanbul - MGallery Hotel, both are central and cost around €80.00 per night, inclusive of breakfast and taxes.
What to see and shop
Istiklal Caddesi (independence avenue) is the most famous avenue in Istanbul. Nearly 3 million people visit the avenue every day. This elegant pedestrian street is 1.4 km long and houses the most beautiful Ottoman era buildings of the city. If you are based down near the Galata bridge on the Northern shore of the Golden Horn (where the above hotels are based), get the underground tram (Tünel), a historic subway funicular that goes up the hill to the avenue. It is the second-oldest urban rail line in the world after the London Underground.
The Galata bridge – walking across the bridge is a magical experience night or day. If you can, I would walk across it a few times but definitely at sunset. During the day, the bridge carries a constant flow of people crossing and some hopeful anglers trailing their lines into the waters below. Underneath is full of restaurants and cafés serving drinks and food all day and night.
Hagia Sophia – Once was the largest Church in the world, it is one of the greatest architectural buildings and an important monument both for Byzantine and for Ottoman Empires. Once a church, later a mosque and now a museum, the building showcases heritage from its Christian and Islamic heritage. It is a place to visit first to get a sense of the history of the city. Buy tickets in advance as the queues can be long, but you can pick up a local and verified guide at the door who can fast track the queue and give you a personalised tour.
Topkapi Palace – Located around the corner from the Hagia Sophia, this enormous palace was the imperial residence of the Ottoman Sultans for almost 400 years. It is full of colourful stories and artefacts, a visit gives you a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the Ottoman empire. It is based around four courts, each telling a story of how the empire was run.
The Blue Mosque – This impressive mosque has six minarets and the interior is covered in blue iznik tiles, hence its name. Besides been a tourist attraction, it is also an active mosque. Before visiting the mosque, take off your shoes and place in bags provided. There is no charge to enter and if you are a woman, wear a head covering piece of fabric when entering to cover your hair (a scarf will do). Please bare in mind that it is closed to non-worshippers during five daily prayers.
Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir – If you don’t like Turkish delights, I would give them a chance again and try them at Haci Bekir, which is the original store that invented Turkish Delights. There is many forms and favours of Turkish Delights like rosewater, pistachio, lemon, and walnut. Apparently the founder of the company first invented these treats in 1777 and introduced them to the Ottoman Palace. A good Turkish Delight should not be too sweet or stick to your teeth. Pop into the store on Istiklal Caddesi (independence avenue) and sample their delights. The staff are very friendly and many speak English.
Where to eat
One word of advice, make sure you book a table in advance as people really love to dine out. There is so many great casual places to eat in Istanbul that you can drop in while touring the city, it caters for everyone with lots of options for vegetable and meat lovers alike. Here is a few to book in advance that were recommended by Parabere.
Street Food - A few carts are dotted around the city selling local fair like charred sweetcorn (Misir), roasted chestnuts (Kestane), broiled or roasted meat – generally cow, sheep or chicken - on a large vertical skew (Döner or Kebap) or delicious flaky pastries (Börek).
Pandeli - Recently reopened in 2018, this restaurant has a long standing history with the city. Located upstairs at the exit of the bustling Egyptian Bazzar market overlooking the Galata bridge, it is a place where memories are made. Generations of the one family have ran this restaurant in many forms since the early 1900s. Here is where you will get a feel of what Turkish cuisine has to offer; simple, accessible and full of flavour. Try the rice stuffed vine leaves, beans in olive oil, marinated aubergine, courgette fritters, stained yoghurt, and the roasted lamb with traditional seasoned rice. One of my favourite experiences in Istanbul.
Neolokal - if there is one evening dining experience you can do while in Istanbul, go to Neolokal. Based in the Salt Galata cultural complex, the restaurant offers spectacular views of the Strait through its floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor terrace. Chef Maksut Aşkar and his team take inspiration from mother nature and focuses on his Turkish heritage in creating local and global classics. The drinks list is excellent offering delicious cocktails and even more delicious Turkish wines.
First of its kind in Istanbul reflecting the work of Chef Maksut Aşkar (of Neolokal) and local wine expert Levon Bağıs, this natural wine bar is filled with only local grape varieties and delicious snacks. An inviting space to suit everyone.
Murver restaurant and bar – Located on the rooftop of Novotel Bosphorus, this is a place to visit and watch the lively bustle of the Historic Peninsula, Topkapi and the sea. You could sit outside in the terrace all day drinking delicious drinks (great alcohol free options as well) watching the world go by. Cocktails are wonderful here and very inventive using as much local ingredients as possible. The restaurant itself specialises in cooking with local ingredients over open flame.
Turk - if you are looking for something special and unique, Turk by chef Fatih Tutak, opened in December 2019, is a modern refined restaurant who showcases the diversity that Turkey provides through its vast landscapes and seas. Expect to be wowed the minute you walk in the door with the service, the décor, the drinks menu (and trolley!), and the craft pieces that are paired with each dish.